Havana: People to People

After the Cuban Thaw and the country being off limits for so long, I traveled to Havana to mix with the people and learn about life in Cuba. Here are my reflections.

Tranquillo y Resolver

In Cuba, hay siempre problemas, people are constantly resolviendo and things always have a way of working out.

Tranquillo y Resolver looks like this:

• Upon arriving at the first casa particular, our host, Xiomara, shared that they double booked the room. Within a half hour of realizing this and before we could worry, Xiomara had consigue (managed) the situation. She told us to be tranquillo and that we would stay with her friend, Maria, who would be there in five minutes to collect us.
• After our stay in Havana, Maria arranged a taxi colectivo to take us to Viñales, home to the world’s finest tobacco farms. On the day we were to travel, the car had mechanical issues. Maria told us hay siempre problemas, no te preocupes (there are always problems, don’t worry). Meanwhile, her sister, Cristina, taught us some salsa and two hours later the taxi arrived.

The Cuban people learned how to manage and resolve out of economic necessity. With the longest embargo in history and limited resources coming into the country, when an issue arises – such as a car breaking down or the water going out, they work with each other, share resources, and manage the situation. Being calm and resolving is one philosophy that I’m bringing back to the US – life is more enjoyable this way.

Mama Cary and the Emerging Class

In 2008, Raúl Castro did the unexpected – he enacted policies allowing Cubans to own their own businesses. By 2017, many Cubans have entered the tourist industry and in turn, are emerging as a whole new economic class; exactly what Fidel’s administration aimed to prevent.

To tell this story, it’s important to share how the economics play out. If one holds a public job, the Cuban government pays each person the equivalent of $20 CUCs to $80 CUCs per month. A dishwasher would earn the equivalent of $20 CUCs, an office administrator around $40 CUCs and a doctor, around $80 CUCs.

For those who rent out rooms to travelers, the average price for a room is $25 to $35 CUCs per night. They pay the government a monthly fee for the license to rent a room and also, pay an amount for each guest that stays with them. Even with the taxes, they are making a windfall compared to their peers in the public sector.

What amazed me was the business savvy and industriousness of those who have started their own businesses. One individual in particular stands out, Mama Cary. She has thought of everything to maximize her opportunity within the parameters of Raul’s rules and because she does everything, her guests affectionately called her Mama Cary. For example, in addition to renting out rooms, she’d provide breakfast and dinner, arrange dinner reservations, receiving commission from the restaurant and shuttle guests to and from the airport, all for an additional fee.

It was incredible to witness Cuba on the cusp of change. In addition to Mama Cary, we meet doctors who moonlighted as taxi drivers to take advantage of the tourist dollars and ate at the first wave of privatized restaurants, catering to foreign diplomats and visitors like us.

Havana: A Magical Place

Cubans I met described Havana pre-US embargo as the Paris of the Americas. Havana’s music scene was vibrant. It was common for a musician to play a set in Havana, hop on a plane, and play the second set in Miami – a free-flowing exchange between Cuban music and American Jazz. What I would have given to experience this!

Today, there’s still an inexplicable magic is Havana. Going to the jazz clubs, I feel in love with jazz music all over again. The salsa clubs were on fire, exploding with energy. Anytime someone asks another to dance, the answer is always yes; it’s a celebration of life. Walking down the Paseo del Prado, I felt like I was on the set of Roman Holiday, with classic cars racing past on both sides. Lastly, the warmth of the people amazed me: I have never been kissed and hugged by so many strangers. If you’re thinking about going to Cuba, go! Experience the magic.